Barking:

There are a number of reasons why dogs bark. Some breeds, such as Shetland sheepdogs, German shepherds, dachshunds, beagles, Jack Russell terriers, West Highland terriers, miniature pinschers, Doberman pinschers, and schnauzers have a natural tendency to bark due to natural selection. Dogs can bark when they are excited or aroused, such as when they are initiating or engaging in play behavior with humans or other dogs. Dogs who are territorial will bark to alert their presence to "intruders." Dogs who are bored or lonely will also bark due to stress. Dogs who are forced to live in the backyard 24 hours a day tend to be excessive barkers, both because they become very possessive of their territory, and because they are bored and lack mental stimulation. Dogs who do not receive enough exercise and/or interaction with their human family can bark excessively. Separation anxiety can often produce severe barking when the dog is left alone. Finally, a dog that is in pain due to a medical problem can bark to signal his or her distress and discomfort.

If you have a dog that barks when company arrives, or your doorbell is activated, or if there is movement outside, such as by a mail delivery person or garbage collector, there are a number of things you can do:

• You can confine the dog to an area of the house where they will not be able to detect movement, such as room toward the back of the house. Or you can draw your blinds or curtains in the windows facing toward the street so he cannot visually detect things that might stimulate barking.
• When your dog barks, ask him or her to sit, or down, or come to you, as they cannot bark and do any of these movements simultaneously with barking.
• You can teach your dog to bark on cue and then never give the cue again, thus extinguishing the behavior.
• You can give your dog a command to stop barking, such as "Quiet" or "Enough" or "No Bark" - hold your hand gently over his or her muzzle to keep him silent, and praise the dog exuberantly for being quiet.

Have practice sessions with your dog by inviting over guests to assist in you in training your dog. Have your guests ring the doorbell, and move about the front of your house, while you remain inside and practice your quiet command, or asking your dog to sit or down when a person comes to the door.

For dogs who bark incessantly, the first thing you should do is hire a professional trainer who can evaluate your dog and his or her environment to determine what is stimulating the behavior. A trainer may suggest increasing the dog's daily exercise, or play time with you or your family members, or perhaps a medical check-up or review of his or her diet. A trainer can also teach you "no bark" exercises to teach the dog to be quiet and/or bark on command.

If the dog is barking out of boredom, use interactive toys such as Buster Cubes or Kongs to keep your dog mentally stimulated during the day. Providing your dog with safe chew toys, a kiddie pool to splash about in, or a place to dig in your yard that is acceptable to you can keep your dog happy and decrease barking. Having a pet sitter walk your dog during the day, or visiting your home at lunch-time for a short walk can also assist with making your dog healthier and happier.

Never yell at your dog when he or she barks, as the dog cannot interpret what your yelling means, and can often seem to the dog like you are barking as well, thereby encouraging the behavior. The key to changing the behavior is understanding why your dog is barking, and then instructing him or her with alternate, desired behaviors and using praise and rewards when these behaviors occur.

Some people use anti-barking devices such as shock collars to keep their dogs from barking. These products are NOT recommended. They do not work and can often make the problem worse in the long run, and, most importantly, this is a cruel way to teach your dog to be quiet. If your dog is barking because they are stressed and lonely, you are only eliminating the symptom (barking) without addressing the cause, and the dog will then find other ways to display it’s stress. Shock collars work along the premise that the dog is punished with the shock each time it barks, thereby decreasing the behavior. This punishment over the long term can make your dog even more anxious and stressed, neurotic, fearful, and aggressive. Dogs can also become acclimated to the shock and continue to bark through it, even at the highest setting and despite the pain, because they are stressed and barking provides them with some stress relief.

There is a newer alternative on the market called a citronella collar that is a more humane alternative to shock collars. The spray of the citronella will interrupt the barking behavior without causing the dog pain. However, just with the shock collars, citronella collars only address the symptoms of the problem and not the cause. You should only use the citronella collar in conjunction with a behavioral modification problem to address the underlying reasons why your dog is barking, so that eventually you can remove the collar altogether. Just like with shock collars, dogs can learn to acclimate to the citronella and bark through the canister. The most effective way to reduce problem barking is modifying the dog’s behavior and environment so that the dog no longer feels the need to bark excessively.

Bored and Lonely Dogs

Listed below are some ideas for keeping your dog entertained while you are away from the excellent book, Caninestein: Unleashing the Genius in Your Dog by Betty Fisher and Suzanne Delzio (HarperCollins, 1997).

1. Get a plain brown paper bag, such as lunch bag or grocery store bag, and fill it with toys, treats, chews, bones or other goodies for your dog. Close the bag tightly and when you are about to leave for work, lead the dog to the place where he stays during the day and give the bag to the dog. The dog will enjoy getting the bag open and then working through each of his prizes. This will also make your leaving the house a pleasant thing for the dog, as he gets a goodie bag in exchange for being alone without you.
2. Hide treats, toys or bones around the house or yard. You can have someone in the house put your dog in a sit-stay, or place him in a sit-stay yourself if he is obedience-trained, so that he can watch you hide the items. He will probably remember where at least one item is hidden, but will most likely have to hunt about his living area to find the rest, which can be a very stimulating activity. Once you find that the dog sees that your hiding the items is a daily ritual, have him outside in another room or area while you hide the items, so he has to work harder at finding them. You can change the location of items, or even skip a day to keep him guessing.
3. Leave a radio or TV on. The sound of human voices is very soothing to a dog. You can hook up an appliance timer to the TV or radio if you don't want them running on all day. However, be sure that all cords are protected or out of your dog's reach so he can't chew on them.
4. You can hang items from trees or other structures in the yard, such as a tire or a toy or a nylabone. Your dog can entertain himself by jumping and trying to catch his prize, but be sure to hang the item so it is high enough that your dog has to work to get it, but not so high that his hind feet do not come off the ground.
5. If you use a doghouse to give your dog shade during the day, attach a ramp to the house so that your dog can climb on top and hang out there. Dogs love to lay about on high. You can also make him a platform by attaching a flat wood board to a crate, or by providing him with an old wooden or plastic table. Make sure however that your high resting spots are nowhere near a fence so that your dog can use them to escape from the yard.
6. If you have a dog who enjoys ripping up pillows or stuffed toys, a great exercise for him involves a wooden or heavy plastic crate with a four or five inch square opening. Put some good-smelling treats in the crate and then stuff it with old rags or towels that you don't mind having ripped up. The dog will enjoy pulling the stuffing out of the crate to find his treats. You can also substitute a sturdy nylon bag for the crate, or some people use heavy cardboard boxes.
7. If your dog is very active, consider putting some agility equipment in your yard. You can make jumps very cheaply from pvc pipe, and tunnels can be purchased at any toy store, or at some pet supply stores as well.
8. You can also hide treats, toys and other items your dog enjoys in the yard, just as you would for a dog that stays inside the house while you are out.

If you are looking for more great ideas to keep your dog stimulated, as well as fun games you and your family can play with your dog together, check out Caninestein: Unleashing the Genius in Your Dog by Betty Fisher and Suzanne Delzio!

Chewing:

Dogs chew for a variety of reasons. The main ones are teething, boredom, and separation anxiety. Puppies between four to six months of age chew because they are teething and chewing helps to ease their gum discomfort. You must provide your puppy with appropriate items to chew, and confine him to areas where there are no tempting objects such as sneakers, socks, children's toys, or any other household objects. Using a crate or baby gates are good ways to keep your puppy confined and keep the puppy safe from harmful items to chew, as well as protect your home from an eager puppy's teeth! It is unfair to expect your puppy not to know what he can or cannot chew if you allow the puppy free run of your house and access to all of your personal items. You can give your puppy some safe chew toys in his crate. Excellent examples of chew toys for your puppy are Nylabones, sterilized bones, vinyl or rubber toys, or Kongs stuffed with peanut butter, biscuits, yogurt, or other food items that are good for your puppy. If you have a puppy that is an aggressive chewer, typical among the larger, muscled breeds such as pit bulls, mastiffs, and rottweilers, avoid items such as rawhide or cow hooves. Dogs with powerful jaw strength can break up bits of these items and swallow them, causing stomach obstructions and possible surgery to remove them. These items, as well as pig ears and other animal products, can also cause aggression in multi-dog households and are best avoided altogether.

Puppies experience pain in their gums as they lose their baby teeth and their adult teeth come in. You can give them ice cubes to chew on, which will help numb the painful feeling in their gums and jaw. Another method is to take a washcloth, soak it in cold water, wring it, and put it in a plastic bag and freeze it. You can later give the puppy the frozen washcloth to chew on (while you are supervising them.) You can achieve the same affect with a rope toy. You can also soak the washcloth or rope toy in low-sodium chicken or beef broth and freeze it, or make "chicksicles" by putting some chicken broth in your ice cube tray.

Teach your puppy what toys are appropriate for him to chew on. When the puppy attempts to chew on something unacceptable, move the unacceptable object out of the puppy's mouth, and give the puppy an acceptable toy to chew on. Praise the puppy when he starts to chew on the acceptable toy. You can use the same technique with an adult dog that you have just adopted. You can also teach your dog a "leave it" command to let go of objects, and it can be particularly useful when you walk your dog outside, as many dogs will tend to pick up less than desirable objects on the street like cigarette butts and trash.

Adult dogs that are bored will chew to give themselves something to do during the day when you are not at home, or in the evenings when you are home and not interacting with the dog. Exercising your dog regularly can assist with destructive chewing, as a tired dog is a happy dog. Giving your dog an outlet to expend his or her pent-up energy is an excellent way to quell destructive behaviors, as a well-exercised dog will most likely want to relax and sleep in your home instead of finding things to chew on to work out its frustrations. There are some excellent toys as well to provide your dog with mental stimulation when you are not home, such as the Buster Cube and the Kong. A Buster Cube is a hollow cube that you can stuff with kibble or other treats, and the dog must figure out how to roll the cube around to get the treats. You can even feed your dog his or her breakfast in this way, as it will take the dog quite some time to get all the kibble out and help him or her to expend energy in a positive, fun way. Kongs are another toy that you can stuff with food and provide to your dog while you are either not at home, or preoccupied with household tasks. An expertly packed Kong full of food can be a challenging task for your dog and provide exercise for the dog's gums and jaws as well.

Digging

Digging is a natural behavior for dogs, particularly for breeds in the terrier group who were originally bred to dig out and capture small game and rodents. Dogs can also dig under fencing to escape from your yard, or dig to hide their treasure such as bones, toys, and treats.

There are two ways to deal with your dog digging in your yard. The first allows your dog to dig in an acceptable area, and the second prevents the digging behavior completely. If you are amenable to allowing your dog a place to dig in your yard, bury some of the dog's favorite toys or treats in the area and then encourage your dog to dig there. You can attach a command to the behavior such as "get it!" Monitor your dog closely when he or she is in the yard, but try to do so without the dog realizing you are watching. When you see your dog about to dig in an unacceptable area, tell the dog in a firm voice "No dig" and then quickly move the dog to the acceptable area, and excitedly tell the dog to "get it!" Praise the dog when he or she digs in the right place.

Another way to reinforce this behavior is to bury treats or a favorite toy before allowing the dog to roam about the yard, so that when you direct him or her to the correct space, they will be pleasantly rewarded with their digging by finding a prize. It is also important to keep the dog out of unacceptable areas, such as a favorite flower or vegetable garden. Fencing is a good method of keeping the dog away from places you would not like the dog to dig, while allowing them access to acceptable digging places.

Another method is to bury your dog's feces in the area you do not want him or her to dig, as they will not likely come back to dig in that area again after they have discovered their own waste. You can also bury stones or wire mesh in the unacceptable area to prevent your dog from wanting to dig there. Keep in mind though that some breeds, particularly retrievers, can try to pick stones up in their mouths and accidentally ingest them, or wear down their teeth on them, so the stones may not work for all breeds. You could try larger stone boulders or rocks in this case.

If you would like your dog to stop digging altogether, you first must figure out what is stimulating the digging behavior. Dogs often dig because they are bored and are looking for something mentally stimulating to do. Increasing your dogs exercise during the day, such as more and/or longer walks, or engaging in some fetch or toy games when you are home, are good ways to give your dog more variety and excitement in his or her life. Obedience training is another good way to engage your dog in mentally stimulating activities. Give your dog toys that he or she likes when you leave for work and remove them when you get home, so that the dog does not get used to having the toys around constantly, but sees them as a special part of his or her time without you. You should also rotate your toy mixture frequently to keep the dog stimulated. Interactive toys, such as Buster Cubes and stuffed Kongs, are great alternatives to digging as they give the dog something challenging to work through while you are not home. A nylabone soaked in chicken broth is also a great treat for a dog. Also, be sure to keep your dog's nails trimmed, as this will also discourage him or her from digging.

If your dog is trying to dig under a fence, you can stop this behavior by plugging the weak areas along your fence. Concrete blocks, railroad ties, or chicken wire/mesh fencing are examples of items you can purchase fairly cheaply to block your dog's access to getting under the fence. Whichever method you use, be sure to have the items extend at least a foot or more under ground level to halt your dog from attempting to dig under them and move them aside.

Dogs sometimes also dig to have a place to cool off by reaching the cooler layers of dirt underneath the surface. If you notice your dog digging and lying in the hole, make sure that your yard has shady areas for your dog to hang out in during the day. Particularly with our Southern California summers, dogs can get quite hot during the day. You can provide your dog with a small kiddie pool to splash about in during the day and cool off. Make sure you buy the hard plastic kind and not the one that you expand with air! You can also provide your dog with a dog house or crate to den in during the day, or make sure they have access to a covered patio or other area so they can cool off. Many dogs do enjoy lying about in the sun, but be sure they have a place to go to cool off when the heat gets too much for them. You can also purchase "cooling pads" for your dog at any pet store or through most pet supply catalogs. These pads stay cold for hours and are a great way of providing your dog some cool relief from the summer heat.

Dominance:

Should you be the "alpha" over your dog? Is your dog in a constant struggle to dominate your household? Should you let the dog know you are "the boss" through intimidation tactics? There are many misconceptions about dominance among the every day dog-owning public that need to be clarified.

In the early days of formalized dog training, there was a great emphasis on using the "wolf pack" model to describe dog behavior. In this model, one wolf is the "alpha" wolf that rules the rest with an iron fist (or paw) and does so through intimidation and aggression. The infamous "alpha roll" of puppies and dogs comes from this idea, where you emulate the lead wolf by rolling the dog forcibly on its back to tell it you are in charge. The problem with this model is, it’s wrong, and can be quite dangerous. More recent and longer-term studies of wolf behavior by researchers have found that this definition of "dominance" is flawed. In a wolf pack, the top wolf leads through its ability to control the resources that the pack needs to survive. These resources include the ability to hunt and find food, sleeping places, and access to mating. An alpha wolf may use displays of aggressive behavior such as growling or an erect body posture to intimidate another wolf, but the other wolf submits by rolling on its back willingly. A wolf that grabbed another wolf and forcibly flipped it over on its back would terrify the other wolf into thinking it’s going to be attacked and killed. Therefore, using an alpha roll on your dog will not communicate to your dog that you are an effective leader – it will merely tell them that you are a very dangerous individual to be around and they are at risk of being attacked at any time.

The other problem with using these wolf pack models is, even if you go by a more correct theory of wolf behavior, your dog is a dog, not a wolf. True, dogs and wolves share a genetic heritage, but they are not the same and their behavior can differ in major ways. Studying wolf behavior can be helpful in learning about dog behavior, but if it is the only model you use, your analysis of dog behavior will be very much incomplete.

Dominance is a description of a social relationship where one party has an elevated status over the other. Keep in mind that a dog that is dominant with one dog may be submissive with another. It is also quite common for dogs in a household to reserve status roles depending on the situation, i.e. one dog may be more dominant at feeding times, while another is more dominant when choosing a sleeping area. The biggest misperception that dog owners have is that dominance is equated ith aggression, when in fact no correlation exists. Often times in dog and wolf packs, researchers will observe that it is the middle ranking pack members who are aggressive and who start fights. The dominant member is usually the most confident member, the one who controls resources and knows it, and shows good leadership skills. Squabbling and pushy behavior is more of a "beta" trait – dogs that will never be at the top but are insecure and anxious and try to jockey for position whenever they can.

You should always think of yourself and your family members as good, effective, benevolent leaders. A leader does not rule through intimidation or scare tactics, but through confidence, charisma, and control of resources. How do you make yourself a good leader? Here are some tips:

• Always ask your dog to do something for you before they get anything in life that they want. This can include food, walks, play, toys, petting, attention, getting on furniture, etc. Every dog is different so you will have to determine what things are important to your dog, and then take control of them. Asking your dog to sit, or lay down, or do a trick, before they get any resource is a very simple, yet effective, way of instilling structure in your dog’s life.
• Train your dog in basic obedience commands. It is not necessary to have an everyday "pet" dog trained to competitive obedience levels, but having a dog that understands and reliably performs the basics (sit, down, stay, walking well on leash, coming when called) makes life easier for the both of you. It’s easier on the owner because you have a dog that will do what you ask them to do, and it’s easier for the dog because you have clearly established a line of communication to him about what you want, and you’ve made things clear and structured for him. The more unstructured the environment is for an animal, the more stressed and anxious that animal will become.
• Reinforce and reward deferential behavior at every opportunity. Dogs will tend to repeat behaviors that bring them good things, and stop doing behaviors that gain them nothing. Realize that dogs are basically self-motivated, selfish creatures. They do not do things "because they just want to please" or because they are little Lassie clones. The truth is, dogs want to do things that get them good things like food, walks, play, attention, etc. When they are giving you lots of love and affection, it is because it first and foremost makes them feel good. An effective leader will let them know which actions will get them what they want, and which will produce nothing. If you reward pushy, obnoxious behavior, you will get more pushy, obnoxious behavior, but if you ignore it, it will in time extinguish itself.

John Rogerson, a well-known trainer and author from the United Kingdom, stated that every dog owner should ask themselves 3 questions.

1. In a 24 hour period, how much do you influence your dog’s behavior?
2. In that same period, how much does your dog influence your behavior?
3. In the same period, who does your dog spend most of its time playing with?

If the answer to #2 is higher than the answer to #1, then you are not likely being an effective leader. If the answer to #3 is not you, then it’s unlikely you have much influence over your dog. The dog is determining who and what it plays with, what the rules of the games are, and when and where they happen. Think about these three questions when you interact with your dog – "influence" and "leadership" and control of the dog’s resources, not intimidation and fear tactics, is the answer to having a dog that respects you and your position in the household.

Escaping:

When you first bring a dog home, always think of him as a potential escape artist.

Never take any chances with doors left ajar or gates left unlocked. Always keep padlocks on your gates to prevent your dog from being stolen or from the dog pushing open the gate and getting out.

Be sure to make arrangements with anyone who might have access to your home or yard (gardener, meter reader cleaning person, etc.) and have a plan for keeping your dog contained. Try to keep your dog indoors on days when people have access to your yard and make sure everyone knows to shut and lock your gates when they leave.

When you first bring a new dog home, it is a good idea to put him in the yard and spy on him from inside the house without him seeing you. See if he tries to escape by going under or over the fence in any areas or if he jumps up on anything that might give him a "boost" over the fence. Make any necessary changes right away. Move items away from the fence that he can jump on such as trash cans or patio furniture.

If you notice your dog trying to jump the fence, one method to discourage this is to take some rope or twine and run it through strips of PVC pipe (which can be purchased from a home improvement store for very little money). Run the PVC pipe and rope along the top of the fence. When the dog tries to get his paws on the top of the fence to pull himself over, the PVC pipe will roll along the rope and make it impossible for him to get a hold. After a week or so of doing this, your dog will find that trying to jump the fence is a frustrating activity and will stop.

Another way to modify your fence is to run a board such as a 2x4 or 2x6 along the top of the fence at an angle, so that the top of the board slants inward and upward. This provides a visual deterrent to many dogs that attempt to jump fences.

Installing a dog door often can decrease escaping behavior because it gives the dog the option of having another place to go other than the yard, and allows the dog to go inside the house. If you are worried about giving the dog free run of the house while you are out, you can place an open wire crate with one side missing up against the dog door, and fasten the crate to the wall with some eyehooks. This gives the dog the ability to go into the house in the crate, but not have free rein of the whole house.

Exercise your dog before leaving so that he is tired and calm by the time you are ready to go. Exercise the dog a lot outside of the yard so that he sees what is outside the fences and is not as interested in getting outside to them during the day.

Make your yard a fun place that your dog enjoys being in. Provide him with stimulating toys such as food-stuffed Kongs or Buster Cubes, a sandbox for digging, a kiddie pool to splash in, and plenty of toys for chewing and playing with. Provide him with a dog bed that is comfortable to lie in and shade from the sun and protection from the wind. Play with your dog in the yard a lot so that he associates the yard with good things. Make sure also that he has plenty of drinking water as well!

Make sure that your dog wears ID tags at all times if he is an escape artist. Microchipping your dog is another step to help ensure that you will be able to retrieve your dog if he becomes lost. Let your neighbors know that you have just adopted a dog that is an escape artist in case they see him during the day when he gets out.

Dogs that escape the yard may be anxious and afraid. Consulting with a professional trainer can help you determine ways to build your dog’s confidence and help him make a smooth adjustment to his new home.

You can also purchase a kennel run kit from any home improvement store. These are large kennels, usually 4x4 or 4x7, that the dog can stay in during the day. There is enough room for the dog to move about in the kennel run, but the side and tops keep the dog in and prevent the dog from escaping the yard. Make sure the kennel run has a bottom, or is placed on a surface where your dog cannot dig out. You can place concrete blocks or wood rail strips along the edges of the kennel run as well to prevent digging. Provide the dog with food, water, a bed, and lots of chew toys in the kennel run so he enjoys being in there.

Housetraining
The keys to successful housetraining are:

Containment: Your dog will not eliminate in areas where he is not allowed to go. Using a crate is an excellent way to quickly housetrain a dog as a dog will generally not eliminate in the same space where it sleeps. You can also contain your pet in a small area of your house such as a kitchen or bathroom using baby gates. Keep your dog confined at all times when you are not directly supervising him until you are sure that he is housetrained. Another method is to tie a leash to your dog and loop the leash handle through your pant's belt loop, or tie the leash around your waist, so that the dog must be with you at all times. This makes it easy for you to quickly move your dog outside if he starts to eliminate in the house.

Schedule: By adhering to a strict schedule for food, water and walks, you will pattern your dog to the desired behavior. Do not leave food around all day for the dog, but rather give him 15 minutes or so to finish whatever you give him to eat. Pick up the bowl when you are down. Do the same with water. If it is a hot day and you have to leave for a few hours, you can leave a few ice cubes in a bowl for the dog. By controlling when your dog eats and drinks, you can be sure to be there when he eliminates and move him quickly outside to the correct spot to eliminate.

Praise: Always praise your dog enthusiastically when he eliminates in the correct place, as this will let him know that he is doing the right thing by going outside. NEVER hit or yell at your dog for eliminating in the incorrect place, or rub his nose in his mess. If you don't catch the dog in the act, correcting him later is useless. If the dog eliminated in the house, it is either because he was simply unable to hold his bladder for that long, or he was not confined properly or supervised properly.

Odor Removal: When your dog eliminates in the house, the most important thing is to remove all traces of the odor, or the dog will continue to eliminate in the spot. Using common household cleaners is not enough, and using ammonia products is actually counterproductive as the residue smells very similar to urine to dogs. There are products sold specifically to eliminate pet urine and feces odors that you can purchase at any pet supply shop. Nature's Miracle and Simple Solution are two brand names for such products.

Jumping Up: Do’s and Don’ts:

Dogs who jump up to great you and your visitors are a common problem. Dogs jump up because they wish to get close to your face to get eye contact and attention. They’re not trying to be obnoxious, they just think this is an appropriate way to say "hi!" Your job is to teach them a more appropriate greeting.

Do teach them an incompatible behavior such as "sit" or "down" or "four on the floor" when they jump up, and reinforce these behaviors enthusiastically.

Do turn your back on the dog when they jump up, and only give them eye contact and attention when they are sitting, or laying down, or have all four paws on the ground.

Do have your dog on leash when visitors arrive, and instruct them to turn their back on the dog when he jumps on them, and to turn around and reward him when he is not jumping.

Do practice greeting behavior at the door with friends and relatives so that the dog learns a consistent pattern of being rewarded for not jumping up.

Do place the dog behind a baby gate, in a crate, in a room behind a closed door, or in the yard if you feel visitors to your house will not comply with your request to help you train your dog.

Don’t knee the dog in the chest. This can hurt your dog, and it doesn’t teach him what behavior you want from him.

Don’t grab his paws and squeeze them. Again, this is painful to the dog, and it doesn’t teach him what you want.

Don’t walk into him and step on his back toes. It’s painful for the dog, and once again, it doesn’t teach him what behavior you want.

Don’t use a method such as the three listed above because these can also cause your dog to fear you and damage your relationship with them.

Don’t push the dog away from you, or yell no, or get excited. Aside from not teaching the dog what you want, it can actually be a lot of fun for some dogs. You want to remove all attention from the dog when they jump up – yelling and pushing is attention, even if it is negative.

Don’t reinforce behavior that you don’t want. In other words, don’t let visitors grab the dog and pull him up, or get excited. If you let the dog jump on some people and not on others, this is confusing to the dog.

Nipping:

Dogs use their mouths to explore and communicate with other dogs. Puppies who are not trained to have good bite inhibition will often become adults with "hard mouths" with humans when they are playing. You can extinguish this behavior with the following steps.

If your dog jumps up and grabs your hand, your clothing, or any other part of you, say absolutely nothing. Make a disgusted "snort" noise and walk away from your dog and ignore him for at least 5-10 minutes. Every time your dog places his teeth on an inappropriate object, you are teaching him that he will lose the thing he desires, which is attention and play from you.

Another method to use is to give a sharp, high-pitched LOUD yelp when the dog nips you, such as an "OWWWWWW!!!!!" Make sure it’s good and loud and dramatic! Then immediately turn away from the dog, fold your arms across your chest, and walk away. Despite your dog’s entreaties to get your attention, ignore him for 5 to 10 minutes.

When your dog returns to you and licks you or stops using his teeth on your skin, praise him gently and you can add a command to this, such as "easy" or "kisses." The second his teeth hits your skin, be sure to repeat the above sequence.

If you are playing with your dog and he starts to get mouthy, have a sturdy chew toy ready. Place the toy in his mouth when he attempts to mouth you, and praise him IF he begins to chew on the toy. If he does not chew the toy, do nothing, but continue to give him the toy directly in his mouth when he starts to nip.

DO NOT at ANY TIME slap the dog on the mouth or smack him about the snout, or jam your fingers down his throat. Mouthy dogs are more likely than not to consider this play behavior and it will only escalate their nipping and mouthing you. You may think you’re far as some of these dogs are concerned.

You can also spray Bitter Apple or Fooey on your hands to deter your dog from mouthing you. This method is not recommended, however, as these substances are hard to wash off and humans inevitably forget that their hands are covered in it. It is much too easy to end up getting it in your eyes or your mouth and it takes quite a while to remove the horrible taste and burning sensation!

If you have a very young puppy, a good way to help with eliminating nipping behavior is to enroll him in a puppy socialization class. By interacting with other puppies, they learn bite inhibition. You can also have your puppy play with an older dog, but make sure the older dog’s play style is appropriate for your puppy.

Separation Anxiety:

It is very common for recently rehomed dogs to experience anxiety when left alone. With some patience and consistency, you can teach your dog to learn to be alone. It is important that when you first bring home a dog, do not give the dog a lot of attention at first. While it may seem to you that you are giving him all the love and care he or she needs after being in a shelter, this lavish love and attention can often make the dog more stressed.

Keep your comings and goings in and out of the house calm, relaxed, and unemotional. Do not put up a fuss about the dog ten minutes before you leave, and for ten minutes when you return.

Ask your dog to sit for you when feeding him, taking him for a walk, when he wants attention, or to play. Providing your dog with some structure will actually increase calm and confident behavior in a stressed dog.

If your dog is destructive when you are away, find a safe place to confine him. For some dogs you can use a crate, for others you can try using a baby gate to keep them in a kitchen or bathroom. Try to avoid shutting them inside a room behind a locked door as this isolation can increase the stress level. If you are using a crate, do not crate the dog for more than four to five hours at an absolute maximum.

Make their place or crate a pleasant and happy place to be. Take an old towel or sweatshirt that smells like you and leave it in the dog’s bedding. (You can get the same scent effect from placing a towel in your laundry hamper for a day or two). Give the dog a food-stuffed toy such as Kong stuffed with peanut butter and frozen. You can even put the dog’s breakfast or dinner in the Kong – this gives the dog the opportunity to work on getting his food and this increases his mental and physical exercise.

You can leave on a radio or TV while you are gone with some soothing music, or voices tuned down low. Some dogs react well to the sound of a ticking clock or a noise machine.

Rescue Remedy is an herbal mixture that helps many anxious dogs relax. You can purchase Rescue Remedy from most pet supply catalogs, from Pets Naturally in Studio City (818-784-1233), Healthy Discounts in Sherman Oaks (818-995-7684), or through Natural Canine, www.naturalcanine.com. Give the dog a few drops of Rescue Remedy before you leave. You can also use 5HTP, an herbal supplement used for treating sleep disorders in humans. You can find 5HTP at any health food or vitamin store.

If your dog’s anxiety is extreme, there are medications you can use to help them alleviate their stress while you continue to work on behavioral modification. Keep in mind that drugs will not "cure" the problem, they will just take away some of the intense anxiety so that you can work with your dog to help him get over his fears. Realize too that extended use for many of these drugs is necessary for them to have their desired effect.

Exercise and play with your dog as much as possible. You cannot give a dog with anxiety enough exercise! Just as in humans, exercise increases endorphins to the brain, and helps to calm a dog or person’s stress level. Socialize your dog as much as possible as well – try to take them out with you to as many places as you can as many times as you can.

Taking your dog to an obedience class is another helpful way to increase the dog’s confidence and give him something to do to increase his mental and physical exercise.

Work on desensitizing your dog to leaving. Make a list of all the things you do in your house before you leave (i.e. picking up keys, getting your coat, getting your purse, walking to the door) and then mix them up throughout the day and evening. Do some of them, then go back to your couch and sit down. This will help to take away the stress in the dog’s mind when it sees you going to do these tasks.

If you would like to read more about separation anxiety, you can purchase the following books through Dogwise, www.dogwise.com, 1-800-776-2665:

• I’ll Be Home Soon -Patricia McConnell
• Dogs Home Alone -Roger Abrantes

How to Work with Shy Dogs

Make the World "Safe"

Prevent contact between your dog and strangers if you are not able to manage the situation in a calm, relaxed manner. If you don’t have the time, energy, or ability to have a good training interaction between your dog and a new person, it is better for the dog to be taken out of the situation altogether.

Avoid noisy, crowded areas when you walk your dog. Always try to stay relaxed and bring lots of treats and a favorite toy with you to distract the dog from stressful situations. If you start to feel nervous or frustrated, sing a silly song like "Happy Birthday" to your dog. It will keep you from getting tense and communicate to your dog that there is nothing to be worried about.

Keep your leash loose at all times. The more you pull on the leash and keep it taut when strangers approach, the more your dog will consider meeting strangers a stressful event. Remember that you are transferring your stress to the dog, so you need to be as calm an relaxed and as "loose" as you can be.

Discover What Your Dog Is Scared Of

Most dogs with fear issues have been poorly socialized and are not victims of abuse. This lack of socialization has led to their being afraid of new and unfamiliar things. Make a list of all the things you have found your dog to be scared of and be very specific. Discovering the triggers for your dog will start you on the way to helping your dog get over his fears.

Discover What Makes Your Dog Happy

Sit down and make a list of everything that motivates your dogs. This can be treats, food, toys, a certain person or persons, walks, etc.

Combining "Triggers" with "Treats"

Begin to introduce your dog very slowly and with very low intensity to the things that trigger him while providing him with a treat that he really enjoys. The key is to treat the dog when the trigger appears but before it has set off his fears. Gradually, over time, increase the intensity of the trigger until you have changed the dog’s perception of the trigger that scares him. It is important to remember that you should be giving your dog the treats WHEN they are calm, and not if they are scared, otherwise they will associate the fear with the reward. If you need assistance, a session with a professional trainer can help you with your timing and reading your dog’s body language.

Treats Before Triggers

Begin to give your dog his treat before the trigger appears, so that the dog becomes classically conditioned to expecting great things to happen as his trigger appears. If the dog has already started reacting to his trigger, and then you give him a treat, he becomes classically conditioned to associate the reward with the fear over the trigger.

Recommended Reading

There are several good books on how to help your dog get over their fears. All of the books listed below can be ordered from Dogwise, www.dogwise.com, 1-800-776-2665:

• Cautious Canine - Patricia McConnell
• Help for Your Shy Dog - Deborah Wood
• The Culture Clash - Jean Donaldson (not specifically on shy dogs but has excellent information that can assist you in helping your dog and understanding how he or she thinks.